Calabria

Heather Pass revelled in the delights of a ‘proper’ Italian restaurant.

It’s not very often that a restaurant review begins at the end, but the completion of my meal at Calabria is worthy of it. Sat absorbing its chic decor, I sipped a bellini – dreaming of lazy afternoons in the Italian sunshine.
Unfortunately, Chesterfield is a fair way from Italy, but dinner at this bijou restaurant in the heart of the town conjures up echoes of the real thing.
We arrived to the bustle of happy diners – families, couples and groups of friends chattered over their meals as we took our seats in the shadow of the art deco inspired bar. I had a good feeling about Calabria – named after the owner’s origin, a region in southern Italy.
The quality and care taken in the restaurant soon becomes apparent with the arrival of the cellar menu, courtesy of our charming maître d’. Italian wines from every region are on offer and I chose a palatable white from Toscana, after a glance at the food menu revealed that it would take a fine wine to do justice to the starters on offer.
To begin, I selected the Bresaola, a well-peppered cured beef resembling Parma ham served with a pile of rocket and pecorino shavings. The sweetly dressed greens softened the impact of the mouth-watering meat and cheese and the dish was absolutely delicious.
“Awesome” was all that my partner could muster half way through his Asparagi whilst rather uncouthly dipping into the remainder of the rich, sweet balsamic reduction with his finger. The Parma ham enveloping the seasonal asparagus was cooked just enough to release its robust flavour.
Soon arrived the main courses and silence. Revelling in my deliciously pink pork, baked in a crunchy parmesan crust, momentarily conversation ceased – a rare occurrence. Nestled on a pile of risotto served slightly al dente, the dish was immaculate; finished by a delectable red pepper sauce.
Wild boar doesn’t appear enough on menus. The tender meat of my partner’s chosen dish was complemented by a salty kick from the pancetta which encased the loin. The mushroom and spinach ragu did not overpower it – rather united all the flavours
And so to desserts. My fragrant bitter chocolate tart was fascinating and moreish – rich, complex and a feast of aroma and taste; the perfect dish. All that was left of the delightfully gooey tiramisu opposite was a short line of strawberries, soon devoured by myself.
You all know what happened next. To quote the cliché – bellissimo.

Calabria
30 Glumangate
Chesterfield, S40 1TX
Tel: 01246 559944
www.calabriacucina.co.uk